Decorative Pebbles with City Botanics: What Works, Where and Why

Incorporating decorative pebbles and stones into garden design is a smart way to enhance small urban spaces. We spoke to the small-space experts at City Botanics to get their tips on using aggregates like Waikato Fleck, river pebbles, and white chip effectively in landscaping projects.

Why are decorative pebbles particularly useful in a small urban garden?

Pebbles add texture, pattern, and colour contrast — all without the visual weight of solid hardscaping. They bring interest and depth underfoot or around planting, soften transitions, and make tight spaces feel curated rather than cramped.

With so many options: pebbles, stones, hoggin — how do you decide what works best?

Start by thinking about function. If the surface needs to handle foot traffic, you’ll want something stable — hoggin, self-binding gravel, or small angular stones that lock together. These give a firmer surface that won’t scatter every time someone walks on it.

If it’s purely decorative or used as mulch around plants, you’ve got more freedom. Larger pebbles or smooth river stones are perfect — they look great, suppress weeds, and help the soil retain moisture. For driveways or high-load areas, stick to a heavier-grade crushed stone designed to stay put.

Next, consider the site. Is it damp or prone to puddling? Choose free-draining materials like gravel or washed pebbles. Is it on a slope? Go for something angular that locks together — fine gravel or crushed stone migrates less than smooth river rocks. And don’t forget light levels. Lighter stones brighten shady spots but can glare in full sun — and they’ll show leaves and dirt faster, too.

Then there’s style. Contemporary, urban gardens suit clean, consistent materials — think white lime chip or muted river pebbles. For a relaxed or cottage vibe, softer mixes like Waikato Fleck or rustic hoggin work beautifully. Coastal gardens? Bleached tones like hoggin, River Run pebbles, or even crushed shell create that easy, windswept look.

Maintenance is another biggie. If you want low-fuss, pick something that compacts a little or naturally suppresses weeds — hoggin or compacted gravel are good bets. Loose decorative pebbles offer more design flexibility but need occasional raking or tidying.

And yes — budget matters. Natural stone and specialty gravels can add up, especially over large areas. You can cheat it by using a base layer of affordable gravel, then topping with a decorative layer where it counts.

So, how do you choose? Start with the practical — what it’s for, where it’s going — then factor in style, maintenance, and cost. There’s no magic formula, but get it right and the results look effortless.

Are pebbles and stone just decorative — or do they serve other purposes?

They’re definitely more than just a pretty face. One of their best unsung roles is drainage. Because they’re naturally permeable, pebbles and gravel allow water to filter through instead of pooling — a lifesaver in small urban gardens prone to runoff.

They also help with ground stability. Gravel paths create a firm walking surface without the need for concrete or paving — perfect if you want a natural look that still works hard.

So yes, they’re decorative… but they’re also drainage managers, weed suppressors, moisture retainers, and all-around problem-solvers. Pretty with purpose.

How should you prepare an area before installing pebbles or stone?

Good prep is everything. Like painting a room — nobody loves sanding and priming, but skip it and you’ll regret it later.

Start by clearing the area — remove weeds, grass, debris. If you want your pathway or surface at ground level, dig out at least 125–150mm to allow for the compacted base and stone layer.

Check the ground levels. If it’s uneven, level and compact it slightly to avoid dips, puddles, or shifting stone. For paths or seating areas, lay a thin layer of compacted base material like GAP — we use GAP 7 for light foot traffic and a mix of GAP 7 and GAP 20 for heavy-use areas like parking or machinery access.

Then spread your pebbles or stone in an even layer — around 50mm deep is a good rule of thumb, though paths might need a bit more for coverage and stability.

Get the prep right, and your stone surface will stay sharp and functional for years. Skimp, and you’ll be dealing with weeds, topping up stones, and fixing drainage before you know it.

What would you say to homeowners who think their garden is too small or oddly shaped for good design?

No garden is ever too small — or too weird. It just needs smart thinking upfront.

Small or awkward spaces benefit most from thoughtful planning because every detail shows. There’s nowhere for bad decisions to hide.

Instead of trying to cram in everything you think you should have, start with what you actually need the space to do. A quiet spot for morning coffee? A place to stash the bikes? A bit of greenery to soften a view? Work the design around that, and suddenly, awkward becomes unique.

Don’t be afraid to keep it simple. Clean lines, repeating materials, and a few strong features beat a clutter of mismatched ideas every time. Things like vertical planting, built-in seating, or bold ground materials (hello, gravel!) help small spaces work harder — without feeling cramped.

Read more landscape project feature articles.